常去的酒店老闆娘果然是歐洲葡萄酒的行家。



禮拜六我買了三條鱒魚,想在週末嘗試三種不同的平底鍋水煮:(1) 用薑和caper調味,(2) 只用rosemary(迷迭香)調味,以及 (3) 迷迭香加蒜頭的做法。因為不知道鱒魚配哪一種白酒比較適合(我偏愛口感dry的白酒,但是只買自己偏好的酒會少掉嘗試別種口味的可能性),最後還是決定徵詢老闆娘的意見。


她先問:你要什麼產區? 我說義大利,並解釋說最近一直在喝西西里產的葡萄酒,因此想更進一步嘗試不同產區的風味。接下來她問價位,我說這次預算拉高一點,$20以下都可以,於是她很快就挑了北方城鎮Caluso(皮得蒙地區)的Erbaluce di Caluso給我,並歡迎我下次去跟她討論喝完的感想。



 我是烈酒的愛好者,所以第一口喝這麼清淡的白酒覺得有點失望。不過,放個15分鐘再嘗,Erbaluce就出現了獨特的蘋果香氣,很適合拿來配gala蘋果當零食吃(富士蘋果就太甜了,會壓過酒香),也很適合當餐前酒,配酸得要命的義大利陳年老醋Balsamic Vinegar di Moderna沾青菜沙拉(baby arugula)當開胃菜,是很棒的組合。


吃蘋果的時候,義大利鄰居Ale路過我房間進門來聊天,我就拿酒瓶問她知不知道這個葡萄酒的品種?她有點不好意思的說,身為義大利人,她只知道西西里大名鼎鼎的Nero d'Avola (直譯是Avola地區的黑葡萄),其它她完全沒概念。〔註:我們這棟有四層樓共八戶,因為幾乎都是年齡相仿的單身女生,大家熟了後就把它搞得很像學校宿舍。〕


Ale再看了一遍酒標,說Erbaluce是個很怪的名字,luce是光的意思,erba是草,怎麼會合起來變成一個字?網路上查了一下,這個品種最早出現於1606年的當地土產記錄中,順手並查到兩個不錯的義大利酒種網站(附錄如下)。

Erbaluce di Caluso不是我會特地回購的酒,但絕對是喝了會有印象的品種,尤其獨特的蘋果香氣(apple note),很有秋天應景的氣氛。我覺得老闆娘的推薦很棒(連這裡都寫此酒最適合Erbaluce is drunk with hors d'oeuvres and fish. It combines particularly well with tench and marinated trout and with the dried meat of chamois, the famous mocetta. )

至於鱒魚,結論是第三種煮法最好吃。




Italy's  White Grape Varieties
http://www.zigzagando.com/Italianwhite.html

Erbaluce
This ancient vine, whose presence in the region is traced back to the 17th century, got its name from the brightness and luminosity of its grapes (Erba Luce translates to Grass Light). It's cultivated in Canavese, in the Serra d'Ivrea and on the hills surrounding Lake Viverone, in the province of Turin, as well as in some municipalities in the province of Biella. For a long time it has been cultivated in the province of Novara, where it's called Greco (Greek). The grapes have high acidity and can be used to produce a wide variety of wine types: from elegant dry spumanti (sparkling wines), to dry wines with fine perfume and fresh, slightly acid palate, as well as important passito wines, with or without the addition of extra alcohol.


Italian Grape Varieties
http://www.centopercentowines.com/page/5/italian-grape-varieties.html
Erbaluce
Native of Piemonte, an ancient white grape variety that is being revived. It has a bright copper hue in autumn and the side facing the sun turns amber, hence the name (luce means 'light' in Italian). Also known as ‘uva rustia’ – arrostita – or roasted grape! The resulting white wine can have one of two main characteristics: crisp and dry or aromatic and sparkling.






 
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